Enjoy Spring/Summer 2011 (Part 1): Charlotte Tilbury’s Technics

In Makeup on March 10, 2011 at 3:46 am

If you were interested in SS#2011 défilé, you may have notice new trends in terms of makeup. I will present many of them. For this first post, I will open the discussion with the lovely Charlotte Tilbury, one of my favourite makeup artists (with Val Garland, Lisa Butler, Lucia Pieroni, Mr Nars, Mr Pécheux, Mr Marais, Romero Jennings to limit to these names). This young british, flame-red hair makeup artist is one of the most talented of her generation. Charlotte Tilbury loves eyeliner (her beautiful khol-lined eyes) and mascara. Maybe her signature.

She can make your look rich, famous, and ready to be photographed as Patrick Eichler, a Mac Cosmetics Senior Artist, said (quoted in New York Times, September 15, 2005).

Charlotte Tilbury’s father is painter and she inherited from her father artistic talents. Aged of 13, she met makeup artist Mary Greenwell. She collaborated with to photographers like Mario Testino, and Met Alas and Marcus Piggott. Her clients are among other Kate Moss, Gisel Bündchen, Christina Ricci.

Let’s analyse two examples of Charlotte Tilbury’s SS#2011 makeup trends.

the first one is for Blumarine

Face Chart

Look the washy-type eyes. Tilbury was inspired by a “luxurious bohemian girl sailing around the med, wearing a habulous leopard print kaftan! Think modern day Talitha Getty.”

For this, she uses mac pencil in teddy (but you can use other eye pencil like Nars eye pencil Mambo) in the lower lashline and smudged with a brush all over the lids up to the socket. Depending on the result you are searching, you can use fluffy brushes like Mac #224, Nars #14, sigma E40, or Paula Dorf Sheer Crease Brush, or mac 219, nars#13, or else Sigma E30 (to quote few brushes, the list is of course non-exhaustive). You must know that the outcome will not be the same if you use a blending brush or a pencil one (I tested it).

Several coats (4 for me) black fibre rich mascara are applied to top and bottom lashes to make the eyes more, how to say, attractive, gypsy-hippy chic.

For the brows, she suggests to work them with pencils such as Mac fling and lingering (for Nars addicts, think of Ipanema, or something else) to get a fuller, seventies brows.

The face, as think, should be buffy. I don’t have any precision on the effect. For the products, she used:

Select cover-up Mixed with Moisturelush Cream that have been applied all over the skin, “for an expensive, buffed finish”, as she said. Use a flat brush such as Mac #191 or a saddle-tapeted Mac#192 (if you have it because it is discontinued).

Then apply Mineralize Skinfinish Natural (choice the color that matches with your skin color). This MSF will set the base.

Contour using MSF in medium dark, Medium Deep and Dark (for Women of color, choose Medium Deep, Dark, and Deep Dark) mixed together

High on cheekbones buff  Gold pigment

Lips are magnified with lust lipglass applied precisely with a brush such as the mac #194 (which was commonly used for concealer) or another brush. On top apply Chai Lipglass to get the peachy caramel shade.

This face chart is one of my favorite. I may create a variation in bronze using other eye pencil such as powersurge, or some other pencils that brands such as Urban Decay offers. For oily lids, I wonder if it would be better to use a base… Try…

Look at these two images if you want an idea of the result:

Charlotte Tilbury

Image Credit: ELLE


The second one I found a much more sophisticated ss#2011 makeup.

Face Chart, Charlotte Tilbury

For the eyes, Charlotte Tilbury used:

Mac Pro Studio Finish Skin Corrector, apparently the shade in caramel and another shade, but unfortunately I don’t have much information. These colors must be mixed then blended to lids with a fluffy blending brush such as mac 224, nars #13, Sigma E40, or Louise Young LY38 (or another but fluffy blending brush). Teddy is one more time used on the outer corners of the eyes that you smudge with a 219 (I also tried the 214, and old Shu Uemura 7.5 BL, unfortunately discontinued. Perfect but a little bit scratchy). The Cream Color Base (CCB) in Luna is dabbed on the inner tear ducts for a spot of light. Then, use powersurge eye Khol along the lower lash line rubbed in with a finger. As you can see, no mascara for this face chart proposal.

Face is worked with Mac Pro Studio Finish Skin Corrector to brighten udner the eyes; Prep + Prime Transparent finishing powder on the T Zone (with I suggest a powder puff), then on the cheeks and temples use CCB in Bamboo, Nude, Bronze and Pearl, all mixed.

On the lips use a mix of CCB in Bamboo, Nude, Hush, Bronze, and Pearl patted in whith the fingers.

I hope you will enjoy these two face charts, next March, 20th (soon).

Voilà! au prochain post (see you next post)…

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